Table saws: stop kickback before it starts

Kickback happens when the wood pinches the back of the blade or twists against the fence. The blade grabs the board and throws it back toward you at high speed. Your hand, which was pushing the board, can follow it into the teeth. The guard is your first line of defense. The rule says a table saw needs a hood that covers the blade and rides on the stock. Keep the guard, the riving knife or splitter, and the anti-kickback pawls that came with the saw on the saw. If a cut cannot be made with the guard on, stop and ask. There is almost always a safer way, like a different tool or a jig.

Set up before you cut. Put the saw on a stable stand at a good height, with room in front and behind for the full board. Set the blade so it sticks up just above the wood. Lock the fence square and check it. Use a sharp blade made for the cut. Stand a little to the side of the blade, not right behind it, so a kicked board misses you. For rips, use the fence. For crosscuts, use the miter gauge or a sled. Never use the fence and the miter gauge on the same cut, because the offcut can jam and fly. Support long boards with an outfeed stand or a helper who does not pull on the board.

Keep your hands out of the path. Use a push stick when your hand would get within a few inches of the blade, and keep a push stick on the saw where you can reach it. Do not reach over or behind a spinning blade to grab a piece. Turn the saw off and let the blade stop before you clear scraps or adjust anything. Unplug it before changing blades. Wear safety glasses and hearing protection. Do not wear gloves, loose sleeves, or anything that can catch. If the saw is making burn marks, binding, or bogging down, stop and find out why before you push harder.